Plug the **** into whatever device it came with. You need power, ground and a remote to the LC2i.Ĥ. Connect the LC2i main and bass output to the amplifier.ģ. The end that runs to the door speaker should be connected to your amplifier.Ģ. The end of the wire that's connected to the stereo should be connected to the LC2i. You can trace the wires back from the door speakers and connect at any point. Connect the current front speaker signal that is reaching the front speakers to the LC2i on the Speaker inputs line. I'd ditch the LGD, I don't think it's necessary.ġ. This is what you should be doing in this order. Do not know which RCA's go where, or how to run speaker wire.Īlso confused how to set up AC-LGD to LC2i Again the goal is to power the subwoofer, as well as run amp power to the FRONT (drivers and passenger) speakers. Here is what I am working with - If anyone can help tell me what goes where, I would GREATLY appreciate it. I forget how they said to set it up, and honestly am a bit flustered how to set up all wiring from the amp to the factory deck and speakers. The audio store I went to said I should run an LC2i along with AC-LGD. I am a little lost here and looking for advice: I hand sanded with a little piece of sandpaper to ensure paint was removed around the grounding location.Īmp power wire ran through kick panels on passenger side, and now entering the rear of the cabin at the back wallĪmp ground wire set up with rear fabric simply peeled back (not cut yet) Hopefully this works (it sees a lot of people use this location). Next I secured my grounding wire to the bolt in the rear wall that appears to already be a grounding location. I also decided to solder each end of the amp wire that enters into the fuse holder, just so it was clean and no stray strands of wire.ĭisassembled this piece below the glove box (simply pulls "down" with the small tabs that keep it in placeĪnother view of amp power wire location entering the cab I also ran loom around the amp wire in the engine compartment and taped that closed with electrical tape. I screwed the Amp wire fuse into the battery holder plastic. Running of the amp wire with loom, Secured fuse to the battery bracket/tray This is the passenger side behind the fuse box. Tried the nipple on the "electrical" circular grommet but it was no cooperating, so elected to use the small "unused" oval grommet to the right. I ran the (+) cable through the trim along the passenger side floor and to the rear of the cab. For now I have electrical taped the hole I made in the large circle grommet that is not being used, and will fill that with caulk shortly. I finally disassembled the entire battery case and holder and removed that, and was able to get my arm under the fuse box and use trim panel removal tools to push the grommet and seal it in its original place. Getting the oval grommet back in to the firewall was a major pain and took probably an hour to do it right (and a lot of sweat and cursing). I removed the grommet, drilled a hole and fed the cable through. This oval grommet was unused and seems to work perfect, the wire runs down the wheel well and enters the cab through a pre-cut circular hole used for mounting a factory device. I tried to get through the nipple on that circular grommet but was having a tough time. This is NEXT to the large circular electronics grommet that most people use. Ran the red power cable through a small oval rubber grommet on the passenger side. LC2i - 2 channel line out converter with accubass® and subwoofer controlĪc-lgd - load generating device & signal stabilizer TS-SW2502S4 10" Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 1,200 Watts Max. Still determining if I am going to cut the factory interior fabric on the back wall of the cab so the sub enclosure can rest against the wall, and allow the folding seat to lift and lock in place allowing for floor storage. Which will fit behind the rear driver's side seat perfectly. Pioneer UD-SW250T Shallow Sub Sealed Enclosure I went to a local store, and after a LOT of online research (much in the forums) Equipment is as follows: Let me start by saying I have some experience dis-assembling an aftermarket deck/sub/amp set up, but have no experience assembling, and much less with a factory head unit. Hi all, I am upgrading my 2018 Lariat with the standard stereo system (non-B&O) to include an amplifier, 10" Sub Woofer, and would like to run amp power to the front door speakers.
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